Thread: Gps not turn on and will not start

Originally Posted by Aiken Drum

This repair can be done on the Tomtom One V2 (2nd Edition), One V3 (3rd Edition), One V4 (4th Edition)

Please read the previous posts in this thread and look at the pictures, it will help you better understand these instructions. In particular, it will help you identify the D5 zener diode position on the TT motherboard.

This post is a continuation of the previous post where we repaired a broken TT One V2 that had broken charging components. In the previous post the repair simply bypassed the charging system. That works but the battery had to be permanently removed. This procedure takes that repair one step farther - it replaces the charging system with a TP4056 charger Module. This is a better repair because we get to keep the battery. The new charger is small enough to fit into the TT One V2 case with only a minor modification to the plastic case of the TT. Like in the previous post, this repair will require some soldering.

First thing you will need one of these, the charger used in this repair was bought on ebay - cheap!
Do an ebay search for TP4056 Charger Module. There will be a few different types, smaller is better!



The TP4056 charger module needs a small modification to fit in the TT case. Take a pair of cutting pliers (side cutters) and remove the mini-usb plug. All you have to do is squeeze it with the pliers and then work it a little by hand. Be careful not to damage the TP4056 charger module with the pliers.








Next you solder 3 wires to the TP4056 charging module. One (black for ground) wire on the IN- pad, one (red for hot) wire on IN+ pad, and one (red for hot) wire on Bat + pad. The Bat- pad does not get a wire. The wires were scavenged from an old USB cable.





Next, on the Tomtom board, solder a jumper wire to the lower pad of the D5 rectangle. D5 may be silkscreened on the PCB, it is simply the location on the board where the zener diode is/was mounted. Reference my previous post in this thread for more info about the D5 location.The red wire was scavenged from an old USB cable. The dark area around the soldered area is flux. The old burned charred diode was removed from the board, then the area was cleaned with acetone prior to soldering. Make sure you do not bridge the two pads (upper and lower) in the D5 rectangle together when you solder, you can check that with a multimeter if you are uncertain. This wire will be connected to the wire soldered to IN+ on the TP4056 Charging Module prior to closing the TomTom, it is the last wire to get connected.






After cleaning with acetone you can actually see the board again. Applied clear fingernail polish to the soldered area and the exposed wire to seal the repair. You can now see the silkscreened rectangle on the PCB where the burned zener diode was removed. The wire is soldered to the lower pad in the silkscreened rectangle. This pad supplies +5vDC when the TomTom is plugged in.






There will be two splices made into the battery wires. The red wire (+) on the battery will be spliced to the wire soldered to the Bat+ pad on the TP4056 charger module. The black wire (-) on the battery will be spliced to the wire soldered to the IN- pad on the TP4056 charger module. The yellow wire does not get spliced.





Here the TP4056 Charger Module is mounted into the back cover next to the speaker, It is held in place with Krazy Glue. A plastic rib next to the speaker, where the Bat- pad sits, was removed for clearance. The plastic cuts easily with a knife. You can see where the new red and black wires going to the battery are run along the speaker, they are now spliced to the battery. The other red wire soldered to IN+ will be attached to the wire soldered to the D5 pad on the Tomtom board, that wire supplies voltage to the TP4056 Charger Module which then supplies DC power to the Tomtom through the battery plug while also charging the battery.





Electric tape now covers the battery cable splices as the battery is installed. The cables will be routed through the original wire holder. There should now be only two wires that are not connected, they are the wire soldered to D5 on the Tomtom board, and the wire soldered to IN+ on the TP4056 Charging Module. Those two wires will be connected as the case is closed up. Mine are just twisted together and covered with electric tape.





The battery in place, wiring routed, Tomtom plugged in. You can see the red LED on the TP4056 is on which indicates battery charging. The battery will charge if the Tomtom is plugged in and will quit charging when fully charged except when the Tomtom is turned on. When the Tomtom is turned on and plugged in the charger will supply current to the Tomtom and battery, both the battery and TP4056 will be supplying current to the Tomtom. It takes about 2 hours to charge the Tomtom battery when not being used. The TP4056 lights a blue LED when the battery is fully charged. You could drill two small holes in the case to have a window for each LED on the TP4056 to view charging status, if wanted.





When the cover is closing you can see very little clearance for the TP4056. The TP4056 was contacting the copper shielding so a double layer of electric tape was put on the copper shielding there to prevent shorting. A smaller TP4056 Charging Module would work better.




The next project will the same repair on a Tomtom GO920. I will post that when I get time to play again

Works for TOMTOM XXL??? I have got the same problem, but i dont see the diodes D5 and d8

Originally Posted by kitos

A lot of desire to see your new articles and repairs of tomtom, I would like to learn much more about you =).

The great part of repairs can be fixed by changing a certain diode?

Not by changing diode but adding a small charging system for the lithium battery like the TT One write up.
I tried replacing a diode and it still would not charge due to the charging regulator circuit not working.
I believe it is that circuit that burns up the diode when the circuit malfunctions.

Could you explain how to check them with the multimeter? Do you need to desolder it from the motherboard?

You check for voltage drop across the diode if you have a multimeter that can test a diode.
Also you can do a resistance check if your multimeter has no diode test function.
See this site for info [Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

Is your XXL the big screen model? The big screen is the 5-inch screen. I think that TT XXL had both 5-inch and 4-inch screen
models?. The 4-inch screen model should be similar to this information that has pictures of One XL
that has the D5 diode. [Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

Just completed the charging board repair on the GO 920 similar to the TT One that is already listed in this thread.
It won't be very helpful for your TT XXL due to different design. Will be posting the pics this week with some additional info regarding
wire routing and case clearance because it is very tight fit.