Battery voltage updates:
1) 15 May 2021at 8 pm - 12.93v (see post #10)
2) 16 May 2021 at 10 am - 12.68v (after 14 hours)
3) 16 May 2021 at 7:30 pm - 12.63v (after 23.5 hours)
So about 0.30 amps drop in 24 hours.
Is this in acceptable range?
SUCCESS!
And a lesson for others too![]()
Last edited by biggerdave; 16th May 2021 at 09:07 AM.
Please do not post "thanks" but use the "reputation" star(*) bottom/left or "like" bottom/left buttonsS i m p l e s
PS If you find any dead links on MY posts please pm me & I'll try to fix/reload
Battery voltage updates:
1) 15 May 2021at 8 pm - 12.93v (see post #10)
2) 16 May 2021 at 10 am - 12.68v (after 14 hours)
3) 16 May 2021 at 7:30 pm - 12.63v (after 23.5 hours)
So about 0.30 amps drop in 24 hours.
Is this in acceptable range?
Yes Voltage can vary also due to Temperature, is the car garaged or in the open.?
Can't see a link/attachment? Don't post asking why. Just 'Like' the post & hit F5:
THE LIKE BUTTON IS NOW IN THE BOTTOM LEFT-hand CORNER - If you can't see the like button, then you're an Inactive Member
Posts serving no purpose like thanks or to ask about links go to [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] or are deleted, it's GPS Power policy.
In the garage since i started the battery draining tests.
Last edited by Boki; 17th May 2021 at 06:30 AM. Reason: removed excessive quote, approved
Hi.Check between engine and body negative (-) cable connection.There is definitely a problem with this connection.This connection must be very very good and then the battery voltage is the same as the voltage coming out of the alternator.Check the current coming directly from the alternator, it must be 14.4v.if there is no 14.4v then there is a problem voltage regulator or diode block.
Last edited by arvi; 17th May 2021 at 05:46 AM.
12.6V is nominal for a 12V battery @ 2.1V per cell. You could clean the terminals with a bit of sandpaper, If your terminals look a bit green/white It means the battery has been venting Sulfurous Acid and causes the effect of corrosion "from the old battery" will find a pic of what I mean and a really nice fix.
Back later.
Right here we go:
Spoiler: Battery
Ok this a bad one but if you have any form of this starting it indicates possible battery problems, now you notice this is a maintenance free version, so this still happens.
Now the nice and easy cleanup procedure I use.
First take car outside on driveway or over a sandy patch. Boil some water place in jug and add 2 table spoons of Bicarb Soda and pour this over your battery, wait a while for fizzing to slow/stop use garden hose or bucket of water and rinse Battery and that part of engine bay, Clean terminal post and inside of lug.
Done.
Can't see a link/attachment? Don't post asking why. Just 'Like' the post & hit F5:
THE LIKE BUTTON IS NOW IN THE BOTTOM LEFT-hand CORNER - If you can't see the like button, then you're an Inactive Member
Posts serving no purpose like thanks or to ask about links go to [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] or are deleted, it's GPS Power policy.
Just a small question.
Seeing that the title of this post was "Can't connect to TomTom. Try again later"
Has that problem been fixed???
I do not think the problem with the battery would effect connecting to the TomTom server......
Causes - the device resets and the date and time are not adequate. They do not match the one on the server, so the update is impossible.
After stabilization and synchronization the app cache must be cleaned, then try again with a solid connection.
Alternator vs Battery Test - Scenario 1
My battery is brand new, clean, no corrosion or whatever.
I have used the following video to do the test:
1) Battery charged with battery charger = 12.67v (prior to test).Code:Please Login or Register to see the links
2) Test 1: Start the car
Result: 14.46V
3) Test 2 - Put the load on battery:
- Headlight is ON
- Radio is ON
- Fan is ON and at #2 of 4
- A/C is ON
Result: 14.40v
4) Test 3: Remove the load from battery
- Headlight is OFF
- Radio is OFF
- Fan is OFF and at #0 of 4
- A/C is OFF
Result: 14.45v
5) Test 4: Turn off the car
- Car is off
Result: 12.74v (so battery is charging by alternator, see step 1, the voltage was 12.67 prior to test)
Alternator vs Battery Test - Scenario 2
6) Voltage drop tests on the POSITIVE and NEGATIVE side of battery (video from 04:28 minutes) is skipped.
Note: Everything seem to be fine with my scenario 1 tests. So, I don't want to take the risk.
I think, I should STOP doing all the tests with car. I did few tests with TomTom app.
1) Turn ON the radio by turning the car key to ACC.
2) My radio restarted, I then configured correct date and time.
Note: My radio no longer stays in sleep/standby mode because I have turn OFF the "Sleep mode setting" --> "Sleep mode when ACC off".
3) Connect radio to Wi-Fi.
4) Launch the "TomTom Go v1.17.8 Build 2130" and it went directly in ask me to download the map. So, it seems like my old map got corrupted or deleted.
5) Map downloaded, configured settings in TomTom app.
6) Turn off the Wi-Fi.
7) Turn off the radio by removing the key.
8) Turn ON the radio by turning the car key to ACC.
Result: My radio restarted, and it has wrong date and time (date show's 2001 01 13, even I configured the correct date and time at step 2). So, I guess every time my radio will boot with wrong time and date. This was NOT an issue when my radio was set to SLEEP mode.
9) Launch the TomTom app with wrong date and time.
Result: TomTom app open without any issue. I can use the app. I don't see "Can't connect to TomTom. Try again later". So, look like the date and time is not an issue. Some user got the same message and the solution was to rename the metadata.xml to .metadata.xml (adding a dot front of the file name to hide it) + inside .metadata.xml, after </download>, set the <size>0</size> but this was for Android v4.4 (KitKat). I didn’t find anything with metadata even the ES File Explorer had "Show hidden files" turned ON.
Note: I always had the trouble when installing the TomTom NDS 1.9.6.x on my radio, but I was successful 1 or 2 times. But not this time. It just freezes when selecting "Yes" where it asks you "Can this app send your information when required?".
For now, I’m using "TomTom Go v1.17.8 Build 2130". If I want to use another GPS app, which one should I use --> iGo Nextgen and use the TomTom maps? If possible, I need the latest Canada's maps.
Radio Spec:
Android version shows 8.0 but the API level is at 23, so its Android 6
CPU: Intel ATOM 4 QuadCore(x86), GPU4D; Mali-450 MP4, X86
RAM: 1 GB
GPU Vendor: ARM
ROM: 16 GB (3.66GB Free)
Last edited by Magnetron; 18th May 2021 at 03:04 AM. Reason: Post approved.
Don't anymore tests as far as am concerned you are OK, do what you do normally, maybe in 3-4 day measure battery Volts before starting car.
![]()
Can't see a link/attachment? Don't post asking why. Just 'Like' the post & hit F5:
THE LIKE BUTTON IS NOW IN THE BOTTOM LEFT-hand CORNER - If you can't see the like button, then you're an Inactive Member
Posts serving no purpose like thanks or to ask about links go to [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] or are deleted, it's GPS Power policy.
Bookmarks