Can't connect to TomTom. Try again later

**oneuser** · 13th May 2021, 08:03 PM

Hello everyone,
Did anyone know how to get ride of "Can't connect to TomTom. Try again later" IF appear after using it for a few days?

My car battery drained and had to jump start the car, because of that, the car's android radio changed my date back to 2001.
I launched the app without knowing that the radio doesn't have the proper date and time and I assume because of that TomoTom just throw me "Can't connect to TomTom. Try again later".
I reconfigured to the right date and time but still don't work.
Rebooted radio, no luck.
Turned ON the WiFi (connected to internet), no luck.

Both, the "TomTom Go v1.17.8 Build 2130" and "TomTom NDS 1.9.6.1" give me the same message when launching the app.
Note: Both apps were working fine even without internet before my battery drained.

Since this is time consuming and take forever to download the map when installing, I don't want to uninstall and reinstall the app every time my batteries die and jump start my car. Is it possible to edit one of the file to by pass the "Can't connect to TomTom. Try again later"?

Here is my situation:
1) I downloaded and installed successfully, the following two TomTom GPS app on my Car Navigation android system :
TomTom Go v1.17.8 Build 2130

Code:

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TomTom NDS 1.9.6.1 (I know there is 1.9.6.2 available)

Code:

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2) Used both apps for few days. I don't have 3G or internet connection when using this app in my car radio.
3) My car battery died and had to jump start the car. And because of that, the radio date changed to 2001.
4) Launched the both app and it gives me "Can't connect to TomTom. Try again later".
5) Reconfigured the date and time but I still see the same message.

I know by uninstalling, reinstalling and redownloading the map will bring my both app to live. But I don't want to do this every week if need to jump start the car. The battery is brand new and installed in October 2020. Now days I don't drive that much and for that reason I have to jump start.

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

**Magnetron** · 14th May 2021, 02:37 AM

Just saying, if you have to jump start your car after a week with a new battery you have a problem with something in the car drawing power, if you have a multimeter with 10A range take of the positive lead off and measure the standby current for your car, if it's way less than 1A that's OK but any more see an Auto Electrician, or get your "new battery" tested. How old is your battery? Of cause do this test before any re-installations.

**oneuser** · 14th May 2021, 08:27 PM

Originally Posted by Magnetron

Just saying, if you have to jump start your car after a week with a new battery you have a problem with something in the car drawing power, if you have a multimeter with 10A range take of the positive lead off and measure the standby current for your car, if it's way less than 1A that's OK but any more see an Auto Electrician, or get your "new battery" tested. How old is your battery? Of cause do this test before any re-installations.

Thanks for your replay.
I installed the new battery in October 2020.
Yes I have multimeter and alligator clamp and all that.
Since i'm not an electrician, I know the basic. You want me to remove the POSITIVE (+) cable and do standby test? What do you mean by standby test? I watched few videos on utube. From the following 3 videos, which one do you recommend for me to test or do you have specific steps for me?

Code:

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Code:

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Code:

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My battery drained not over night but Not using the car for few days (4-5 days).

In my car, I have installed:
9" touch screen radio
GPS antenna
Backup/reverse camera
alarm system (done by friend).

If I drive the car everyday for at least 10-15 minutes, I don't have the problem. I know 10-15 minutes driving the car is not enough for battery to get fully charge by the alternator.

Waiting for your replay.
Thanks

**oneuser** · 15th May 2021, 12:40 AM

I have done some testings and here are the results, the amperage drop are as follow:
1.45 amp (3 times max drop i have seen)
1.21 amp (2 times seen)
1.11 amp (2-3 times seen)
1.07 - 0.90 amp (most of the time, it drop in this range)
My next tests are: Alternator and all the fuses
I will update here.

**Magnetron** · 15th May 2021, 02:07 AM

OK first vid is good, just pull fuse for each of the new items you installed and see if it drops to less than 1 amp as in the vid then you will know then.
To test your Alt reconnect terminal on battery MAKE SURE YOUR METER is back to measure Volts, start car hold revs up not to fast and measure voltage across bat should rise to about 14.1V if it does Alt is OK
Make sure the probe plug is moved from Amp to Volts if you don't the instant you measure volts the meter will be destroyed.

**biggerdave** · 15th May 2021, 08:00 AM

Just one thought from me, most car batteries are rated at something like 50-70Ah (amps per hour) which means they could theoretically supply, say, 60 amps continuously for 1 hour before dying so if you have a constant drain of 1 amp them, again, theoretically you'll only get 60 hours life?

**asprin624** · 15th May 2021, 09:52 AM

Before you did these:

In my car, I have installed:
9" touch screen radio
GPS antenna
Backup/reverse camera
alarm system (done by friend).

Was everything OK with car battery?

Could be the alarm system or the 9" touch screen radio that is the cause of the problems.

I do not think any GPS app would cause this problem if the radio is turned off.
You can also test by turning off the app in setting with "Force Stop" and see if that corrects the problem.
But I do not think that is the problem if the radio is completely turned off.

Many ways to troubleshoot a problem.......

I just check with my brother who is a electronic specialist at "VW" and he said seeing that the battery is very new:

I installed the new battery in October 2020.

Take the battery back and have it tested there could be a bad cell in it and it should be under warranty and get replaced.
Also while you have the car in have the alternator checked if it is still putting out the correct voltage that could be a problem also and not fully charging the battery.

Also he said:

I know 10-15 minutes driving the car is not enough for battery to get fully charge by the alternator.

That is not enough time to charge a battery at all.

You need to take it out on the highway for a good run not drive around for 10 to 15 mins.

**Magnetron** · 15th May 2021, 01:43 PM

That's basically what am asking him to do asprin624 I have been an Electronic Tech for over 50yrs now, etc etc etc long story + IT have also been using Multi Isolated Battery systems "45yrs" before they invented the fancy crap they have now, and I still have to help people out with failures and I just hook them up a basic system " ie :bypass the crap with simple devices "and away they go very happy.
This is the way.

I will add to Biggerdave's post :
A car battery is rated as Crank Amps " the higher the better" if you divide that CCA by 7.25 you get the AH rate which ain't much. CCA vehicle batteries don't last long as Deep Cycle Batteries and if you let them sit drawing Current they go flat quick, if you try to use a Deep Cycle battery as a vehicle Starter many times it will also not last long. Difference between CCA and Deep Cycle is the Plate thickness CCA have thinner plates to pass more Current short term. Deep Cycle Batteries are thicker to allow longer current drain over time. I have a combo of both in my vehicle, I have a 720cca for main and Secondary is a 100A/H "725CCA" as my long draw Battery for running Fridges/lights/inverters + Solar recharging and if I use my Vehicle battery for internal lighting I bypass my Battery isolation relay to give the main a boost charger before starting the Vehicle as I have had Speedo trip meter/radio reset to basic. eh.
This also the way.

**asprin624** · 15th May 2021, 02:54 PM

Good points Magnetron.

The reason I put a comment in is the fact the use did replace the battery in Oct.of 2020.
Was the problems there before the new battery??
There could be other underlining problems with the car.
With out doing a complete checkup on the car system it sometime very had to find the problems.
New cars have so many electronic control items now a days.
Doing a complete Diagnostic check is sometimes the best way to go.

Your years of experiences in this area.
I am old school too back when I had 55 Chevy you could fix anything very fast.
Now a days I do nothing to my cars.
Let the garage check things out......
If you are not watching what you are doing you can fry parts of the circuit boards and not know it.
Relays could stick after they cool down and leave things open.

I have watched my brother plug a diagnostic checker in under the dashboard and can find problems in a matter of minutes and make the corrections.

**oneuser** · 16th May 2021, 02:18 AM

Guys, thanks for replaying. It really help.
So here what I did.
Note: I took in consideration of all the following before doing any test: By example: Car battery must full charged, Car is off for few hours so all the electronics goes off, door switch is depressed, etc.

1) I removed the fuses one by one and I found one which is seem to be the cause of the draining the battery. A 15 amp (Multimedia) fuse which for my radio.
2) I then verified all the setting in the radio and turned OFF, some settings. There was one setting that seem to be the cause, which is "Sleep mode setting" -------> "Sleep mode when ACC off", it was set to ON by default. So I turned OFF.
Note: I knew this setting was set to ON by default when I installed the radio back in 2017. And I'm sure I had the draining since 2017 but never noticed because I use to drive to work everyday and alternator charged the battery. Now days I work from home so don't use the car that much. Try to use it everyday but only for 10-15 minutes which is not enough for battery to charge.
3) Shutdown the radio manually from android menu (not sleep, not standby).
4) Let the battery fully charged with Battery Tender Junior.
5) Now, most of the time my draining amps stay between 0.35 - 0.36 amp. When I first touch the multimeter probe, it goes to 0.77-0.80 but then it return quickly to 0.35 - 0.36 amps and stay there (holding for about a minute). Before it use to jump non stop within few seconds.
I think now it it should stop the draining. I will continue doing some tests by turning ON some other setting in my android radio (Except the "Sleep mode when ACC off" will stay OFF). Alternator test is now skipped.
6) I measured the battery voltage and its about 12.93 volts (removed from charge). Will do voltage test tomorrow morning or end of the day to see any drop.

Here is the answer of your questions:
Question: Before installing the 9" touch screen radio, GPS antenna, Backup/reverse camera, alarm system (done by friend). Was everything OK with car battery?
Answer: Probably yes, bought the car in 2014, installed the android radio in 2017. Never had issue until I changed to new battery in October 2020. As I said, I use to go to work everyday, so never had to do jump start. I changed the battery in 0ct 2020 because my old battery was not holding the charge. I removed the old battery from the car, fully charged (12.80 volts), next day it will come down to 7 to 8 Volts just by siting in the garage (nothing connected to the battery). I did all the test before purchasing the new battery.

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