Thanks!
I couldn't work out where the download link was on badongo, but the rs link worked.
It didn't make any differance on the road and poi names and info(phone numbers are there), but it is a bigger gmapbmap file than I started with so I'll try it in the US when I get home.
I probably need to find a chinese font for windows mobile to get them to work. I don't know chinese so it would not be of much use for me even if I did find the font.
It actually doesn't look like I will get a day off to do any exploring anyway. I will be so glad to get home and out of this heat and humidity.