Thread: Tread� - Overland Edition cannot boot the system

It might be soft-bricked due to a faulty file which cannot be loaded during the boot-cycle causing it to stall.

Does it have any communication with a computer, either in mass storage mode or in preboot mode?

Nothing the computer not recognizes him. I managed to turn it on a couple of times, but it froze quickly. I once managed to upload some upate to it via wifi but it froze again. Now it shows charging

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If you are attempting to boot it with a microSd inserted, then try again after removing it but if not read on:

That behaviour is indicative of a hardware problem, most likely a failing flash memory chip. Regardless, even a "soft-bricking" due to bad file causing freezing cannot be easily corrected in Android/Linux based Garmin devices because there's no known way to prepare Cure firmware like we can for Garmin proprietary fw.

You'll need to contact Garmin support in your country however they don't repair portable devices locally and will only offer an exchange service, i.e. 'like-for-like' either new or refurbished. If it's not still under warranty the cost for an even-exchange is generally not worth it compared to buying 2nd hand.

This is android. So I didn't try to flash Cure firmware via SD card.
So I have no other option
Oh, it's really funny. Now I charged its battery. And it won't start. But I believe if I leave it until tomorrow it will start

The USB connection might be a separate problem but could be it's also a result of the device having been dropped.

It's been shocked hard enough to break flash chip BGA connections, so maybe there's also cracked USB socket's solder joints to the PCB so try re-flowing them with hot air or a soldering iron with leaded solder if available. Fine cracks might only be visible under a microscope although often the socket itself will have slightly discernable excess movement.

Also it may be that there's still a chip problem, to ensure that all the solder balls of the chip have re-melted you need to use lots of good-quality nonconductive flux with hot air to blow it up under the chip before heating enough to resettle it, and some very light downward pressure while the balls are setting will help too.

If neither of the above make any difference, reballing is the only sure way to deal with a chip with incomplete connectivity but that involves finding the right solder mask for the specific chip and even more specialised kit and skills.

BTW, not a criticism but if you'd mentioned initially that it'd been dropped that would have immediately eliminated a software problem.